Kutná Hora Daytrip

While I was in Prague I took a quick daytrip to visit Kutná Hora. Back in its heyday, this town was a major competitor to the Czech capital. Silver mining made it a huge economic power. Until the 16th century, when wars made the mines unusable. Now its legacy is that of a town full of old churches. With one of particular interest.

The reason I wanted to see Kutná Hora was to see the famous Sedlec Ossuary, better known as the Bone Chapel. This is a chapel that is decorated with human bones. Real human bones dug up from the cemetery surrounding the chapel. There are huge pyramids of skulls, candlesticks, and chalices.

P1100749_1024 P1100750_1024There is a coat of arms from the Schwarzenberg family. They were the ones who commissioned the bone art. The bird pecking the guy’s eye is a part of the original coat of arms. Although the whole being made of bones part adds a new, macabre touch.P1100761_1024

The highlight of the Ossuary is the chandelier. It is said that it contains at least one of every bone in the body. It was really something special.P1100751_1024 P1100752_1024

I thought it would be spooky and ghoulish, but it wasn’t really. The bones were arranged as religious artwork, and that motive was clear. I was way more impressed then I was freaked out.P1100754_1024 P1100755_1024

The Ossuary was the highlight of Kutná Hora for me by far. But this town has a long history, and lots more to show for it. There are lots of UNECSO sites (mostly churches) all around the city.

P1100741_1024Like this, the Church of Our Lady, founded in 1142.

I walked all the way across the little town of Kutná Hora. It was a nice day, and there were plenty of cute buildings to see. Plus lots and lots of churches. At the end of my walk I found the Cathedral of St. Barbra. It is a huge gothic cathedral. Work started in the 14th century and took 200 years! Inside were some really old frescos depicting the mine workers from the town.P1100806_1024P1100793_1024

Most of my day in Kutná Hora was spent just walking around and relaxing. It was a quiet, low-key kind of day. What made it special was definitely the Bone Chapel. If you have time while in Prague, you should try to see it. And if you need a rest from the big city, the cute town of Kutná Hora could be just what the doctor ordered.P1100779_1024

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Street Eats and Sweet Treats in Prague

Food is pretty much my favorite thing. So I get especially excited when I am traveling and get to try all kinds of new foods. During my trip to Prague, I had some truly excellent meals.

I’ll start with the foods that I didn’t eat in restaurants. Street food is a magical, life-changing thing, and it deserves recognition. While there were plenty of places to get street food in Prague, I ended up scarfing down my Czech specialties in St. Wenceslas Square. With more locals milling around than the Old Town Square, this spot had better quality food for the same price. I was told there were two things I had to try, Trdelník and Lángos.

Trdelník is dough that is roasted over a wood fire and covered in cinnamon sugar. I thought it would taste like a swirly doughnut, but it was much better. The outside was crunchy and the inside was doughy and soft. It was sweet, but not too overly sweet. So much better than any doughnut.

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P1100640_1024Lángos is a Hungarian food that has worked its way into Czech cuisine. It’s a piece of fried dough with garlic butter, cheese, and ketchup. Basically, if my nine year old self invented pizza, this is what it would taste like. Anything that combines fried dough and garlic is a win in my book, but the cheese and ketchup helped Lángos to stand out. Plus, it is a super filling meal. The one I got was fried fresh right before my eyes. The hot dough melted the cheese a little. It was delightful.P1100701_1024

Although the street food offerings were diverse and delicious, I did sit in at least one restaurant for dinner. My friend Lucie is a Prague native, and I took her recommendation. It was a tiny, adorable place called Amos.

inside the restaurant

inside the restaurant

 

For dinner I tried Svíčková. It was pork with gravy and dumplings. But it was topped with cranberries, a slice of lemon, and whipped cream. That was something I wasn’t expecting. The overall flavor was unlike anything I had tried before. Strange, but in a good way.P1100612_1024

 Cafes have been a fixture in Prague for a long time. There are many excellent offerings to serve a wide variety of customers. Some are fancier, while others have a more hole-in-the wall vibe. The one I went to was Café Louve near the National Theater. The atmosphere was more on the classy side, and there were plenty of other tourists to keep me company. Also, the prices were not bad at all.P1100717_1024 P1100720_1024

I ordered a small hot chocolate and a piece of cake. When the hot chocolate came out, I thought I was going to be disappointed. It was so tiny. But then I took a sip. This was not Swiss Miss hot chocolate. Thick and creamy, it basically tasted like straight melted chocolate. Divine. Luckily, I had ordered a very light, airy ricotta cake to go with it, so it was very balanced. I was still on a sugar high afterwards though.P1100721_1024

Yet the award for my best meal in Prague doesn’t go to the delectable hot chocolate. It goes to brunch at Café Savoy. On my last day in Prague, I decided to treat myself to a nice brunch. A little digging revealed that Café Savoy was definitely the place to go. So, I set off Sunday mid-morning. Located just across the river from the Old Town Square, the location is lovely. And the building has so many stunning Art Nouveau details. It is a feast for the senses, then you sit down for the brunch.P1100815_1024 P1100816_1024 P1100817_1024

Uncreatively, I ordered the Savoy breakfast from their menu. As I sat there, food began coming to my table on trays. There was a basket of fresh, homemade breads. Accompanied by butter from their farm and house-made marmalades. That was just the warm up. The main course had cheese and ham from the restaurant’s farm. Top that off with a slice of nut cake from their bakery. To drink was more hot chocolate. This time it was served in a pot, with a cup full of steamed milk on the side. You poured however much chocolate you wanted into the milk to make your drink.P1100814_1024 P1100813_1024

You could say that I was in breakfast heaven. The ham and cheese on the fresh bread took ham and cheese to a new level. And the apricot marmalade, I think I would eat it on just about anything. The whole experience, from the atmosphere, to the food presentation, to the staff, everything was perfect. Even the bathrooms played Sinatra music. Did I mention that my dreamlike breakfast only cost about $10? I would go back to Prague just to eat there again.

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Downstairs you could see the pastry shop in action.

Prague was the culinary highlight of my Easter break trip. There was such a variety of tasty food to choose from. From grab-and-go street eats to fabulous cafes. And it was all deliciously affordable. I ate my way through the winding streets of the Czech capital on a mouthwatering journey.

Have you ever visited Prague? Did you try any of these treats? I’d love to keep talking about food some more. 🙂